Short answer: pleated fabric is folded and heat-set so the pleats stay permanently, even after washing. Polyester and polyester-blend fabrics hold heat-set pleats best.
Main pleat styles
- Accordion pleats: narrow, even zigzag folds that open and close like an accordion. Popular for skirts and dresses.
- Knife pleats: sharp folds all facing one direction. A classic for skirts and school uniforms.
- Crush pleats: irregular, crumpled pleats with a soft, textured look. Used for tops, dupattas and dresses.
- Crinkle pleats: fine, random crinkles that add stretch and texture without a structured look.
- Fancy pleats: sunray, box and patterned pleats for special designs.
Best base fabrics
Polyester georgette, chiffon, satin and crepe, and polyester knits. Natural fibres such as cotton and viscose do not hold permanent heat-set pleats well.
Design tips
- Pleating reduces fabric width, so plan for extra fabric
- Pleat after dyeing, printing or foiling
- Approve a pleated sample before bulk
FAQ
Will the pleats wash out?
Heat-set pleats on polyester are permanent with normal washing. Avoid very hot water and hot tumble drying.
Can printed fabric be pleated?
Yes. Printing first and pleating afterwards is common.
See pleated fabrics from Dynamic Knitfabs.